Monday, October 6, 2008

What Is Southern?


A friend gave me an issue of Gourmet magazine last summer. It was their Southern food issue, which meant, of course, a lot of cocktails, a lot of riffs on classic Southern dishes, and a lot of John T. I'd recently read an article in the Oxford American about Gourmet's historical relationship with Southern food, describing how it has, through the years, almost exoticized our down-home cuisine. Well, be that as it may--I don't read Gourmet enough to know--what I found in this particular issue was this gem: an essay written by Edna Lewis entitled "What Is Southern?" Now, as any scholar of the South (sort of, sometimes) I am skeptical of this type of essay. Will it be a long list of moonlight and magnolia-laden cliches? Will I feel like an outsider unless I happen to have my 14-inch waist laced tightly into a corset and hoop skirt while reading? 

No. Edna Lewis, in her understated way, makes the simple seductive in this essay that links food, farming, literature, and memoir. I assign it in my composition classes to discuss cliches, reviews, memoir, etc.--it is perfect for so many lessons, and they usually love it, because they can relate to it. I ask them to read it, then spend ten minutes composing their own "Southern is" essay modeling her prose. I had to laugh this past week, however--when I told my students what their reading assignment was, one looked at me with the same skeptical look I reserved for such essay titles and said "It's called 'What Is Southern?' Is it going to make fun of us?" I assured them it would not, and what's more, it would praise their--our--region in new ways.

Read this essay if you get a free moment today (just click on the title to this post to be linked to it) and let me now what you think. I'll be using it in class tomorrow and I'd love some fresh takes on it. (I linked the full version, but if it seems short, scroll down to the right corner to see which page you're on--I still haven't fully figured out this computer!) Enjoy!



Thursday, October 2, 2008

My Ultimate Chocolate Chip Cookies


I love a chewy chocolate chip cookie. The cookies I'm about to describe are just the best. I started making them when I was in college, and eventually gained a following: My friends made me call them whenever I baked up a batch--usually triple the recipe I'm about to give--and they'd put in their orders. Eric wanted them underdone in the centers, so I took his batch out of the oven after 7 minutes. Matt preferred his a bit crispier on the outside, so that tray stayed in 9 minutes. Bree usually ate the dough with me--roomie privilege. I really don't know where the recipe came from. Honestly, I think it's an adaptation from the back of the Nestle or Tollhouse chocolate chip bag. And it is so good. 

Not only are these great as chocolate chip cookies, this can be a basic dough for any cookies you want to make. When I want oatmeal cookies, I leave out the chocolate chips and add a handful of oats and some dried cherries and cinnamon, maybe a pinch of cloves or allspice. Sometimes I add shredded coconut with the chocolate chips, and maybe some macadamia nuts. I'll bet hazelnuts would be fantastic, too. Play with it--this is just a starter recipe. Make it your own! (I won't tell.)

Sarah's Ultimate Chocolate Chip Cookies
(adapted from something, sometime)

3/4 cup butter-flavored Crisco (Yes, it uses Crisco. Get over it.)
1 1/4 cup packed brown sugar (light or dark)
2 T milk
1 T vanilla extract
1 egg
1 3/4 cup AP flour
1 tsp. salt
3/4 tsp. baking soda
1 1/2 cup chocolate chips (I like a blend of semi-sweet and milk, and sometimes white, chocolate chips)

Preheat oven to 375 F. Cream Crisco, brown sugar, milk, vanilla in lg. bowl. Mix until creamy. Stir in egg until well-incorporated. Combine flour, salt, and baking soda in a separate bowl. Add to creamed mixture gradually. Stir in chips. (The dough will be really soft.) Spoon or use a disher (mini ice cream scoop) to place globs of dough on ungreased baking sheets. Bake 8-10 minutes or until edges brown. Cool 5 minutes on tray, then gently move to a cooling rack.

This recipe should make about 30 cookies.



Wednesday, October 1, 2008

Variation on a Classic

My dad makes the best subs. It's just a fact. His subs were always an event growing up--he'd start the dressing 24 hours in advance, then he'd dig out the insides of the bread, dress the sandwich, add all the wonderful deli meats and cheeses, place the long loaf back into its bakery bag, seal it loosely, then place a heavy cutting board and several large cans of tomatoes on top to smoosh it and let all those flavors marinate for a few hours. Then came the glorious moment when he'd ask us what size sandwich we wanted, we'd show him with our hands spaced far apart, "This much!", and he'd cut it and heat it and it would become perfectly melty ... it was sandwich perfection. When I left for college I craved his subs, so much so that I asked for the "recipe" and made them for a friend's Superbowl party my senior year. I have never had so many guys ask me for a recipe--I must have copied it six times by the end of the game. I don't even remember who was playing, but I remember the boos when the last sandwich ran out.

Naturally, when Dan asked for "football food" this past Sunday, Dad's subs immediately came to mind. But it was 3 o'clock already--no time for eventful marinating and anticipation. So, as daughters tend to do, I came up with a variation on Daddy's Sub, which we would always eat with Ballreich's Potato Chips and French Onion Dip. Call it Sarah's Sub, the Walden Wonder, whatever you like--it was good. So here, play by play, is that Sunday Night Football Food.

Sarah's Sub and Sweet Potato Fries
(adapted from "The Best Sandwich in the World")

Place a couple teaspoons each of dried basil, oregano, and thyme in a jar. Add some crushed red pepper flakes. Mince a few coves of garlic or crush them in a garlic press--add them. Then add about 1/4 cup of extra virgin olive oil. Shake; set aside. (This can marinate overnight if you like.)

Split a loaf of French bread lengthwise so you end up with two long halves. Cut some score marks down the center of each, maybe 1/2-in. deep, and dig out the centers. (Save them for later--they'll be fun to snack on or you can make croutons or breadcrumbs.) Brush both sides with the dressing (above) and start layering on the goods. Medium layers--not too heavy or light--will be perfect. 

On the bottom half, place the lettuce. Any kind works--we used organic greens because they were left over from a salad. Then add sliced tomatoes. Follow with thinly sliced onion rings--red onion is best since it's sweeter, but yellow onions are fine. Now add some sliced jarred sweet cherry peppers (you can find them near the olives in the grocery store. This was my special addition, mostly because Dan loves them, and they were perfect on the sandwich). Next, add a layer of provolone cheese. Cut each large round slice in half and layer diagonally--just one single layer, since you'll add more later. Then add a layer of hard salami, sliced thin. Then a thicker layer of ham (not honey roasted) and then another layer of cheese. Top with the top half of bread, press down, and replace the long sandwich carefully back into the bakery bag. Before you seal it with a twist tie, place a heavy cutting board (some things never change) and some heavy cans or books on top of that. Then seal the bag. Leave it sitting there for at least an hour, then slice, heat in the microwave or oven, and enjoy.

For the fries, preheat the oven to 450 F. Cut 4 small (or 2 large) sweet potatoes into fry-size sticks. Toss with 1 T of olive oil. Line a large baking sheet with foil and spray with cooking spray. Dump the potatoes onto the sheet, try to get them into a single layer, and sprinkle generously with salt, pepper, and (though it sounds weird) a tsp. of pumpkin pie spice. Roast for 20 mins., toss, roast for another 20 mins., toss, etc.--they should take 45 mins. to an hour, depending on how thin you've cut them and how crispy you want them. We have these all the time in the fall and winter--the pumpkin pie spice says "fall" to me, but in small amounts is not at all sweet or overpowering on the fries. If you want to be less healthy, mix some softened butter with cinnamon and sugar for dipping the fries, but that's gong a bit far here, I think.

This sandwich serves 4 (big portions) or 6 (smaller portions). It will also save in the fridge for several days, so make the whole thing and eat it for lunch for the week! It is great left over.